Secure the tire with loose lug nuts. Lift the front of your vehicle with a jack, place jackstands, and remove the wheel when everything is steady. Unbolt and take off the hub. While keeping the Axle Shaft stationary, disconnect the drive axle's snap-ring. The original ring must go back on for the end clearance measurement when putting the drive axle back, just as the manufacturers have stated. If equipped, remove the skid plate. With help from an assistant pressing the brake pedal, unscrew the bolts that hold the drive axle to the axleshaft flange, then pull the drive axle apart from the flange. Put a floor jack under the lower end of the control arm, then lift it a little to make more room. Pull the stabilizer that connects the steering wheel and knuckles apart. Loosen the upper control arm ball joint nut but don't remove it. Then use a hammer to break the steering knuckle free from the ball joint by hitting the knuckle boss the ball stud goes through. Loosen the upper control arm nut and take the steering knuckle apart. Slide the drive axle through the knuckle space, pulling it out backward. Check the needle bearing inside the knuckle and renew it when worn out. Keep the bearing oriented correctly while putting in a new one. Place the thrust washer onto the drive axle so its angled cut points towards the middle of the axle. Put grease on the steering knuckle needle bearing, and spread grease on the drive axle splines like you would for anything else. Reposition the drive axle into place through the steering ball joint, pass it through the steering knuckle's outside end, and tighten the steering nut to the correct torque reading while installing a new cotter pin. Push the drive axle's inner end onto the axleshaft flange and tighten the bolts to their needed tightness. Fasten the tie-rod end to its correct place on the steering knuckle, tighten the nut until it reaches the specified force, and put in a new cotter pin. After putting the ring in its inner groove on the drive axle tube, check the axle movement in the rotating hub with the dial gauge and make sure it falls within the recommended space. If the exam shows the end play is good enough, take out the snap-ring, check its thickness with a micrometer, and put in a new one with the same thickness. Pick from snap-ring sizes in 0.008-inch increments, from 0.043-inch thick to 0.083-inch: select the right one for end play adjustment. Once the free-running hub assembly is ready, place it, attach the whole wheel and threaded bolts, then let the car return to the ground while you tighten all lug nuts until they reach the required amount of force.