To check the pad lining thickness, it is possible to do so without removing the pads, and the manufacturer's pad wear limit can be found in the Brake Specifications chart, although this may differ from state inspection laws. When replacing pads, inspect the rotors for scoring or wear, and if they are badly scored, they should be resurfaced. All four front brake pads must be replaced as a complete set, and bleeding the brake system should only be done if necessary. For the CL11H and CL9H Series Disc Brake Assembly, raise the rear of the car and support it with safety stands before removing the brake pads, then take out the pin bolts and lift off the caliper body. Remove the pad springs, pads, and shims, clean the piston end of the caliper body, and carefully turn the piston clockwise back into the caliper body, ensuring not to damage the piston boot. Coat the pad contact area with silicone-based grease, install the pads, shims, and springs, and position the caliper body back in place, tightening the pin bolts to 16-23 ft. lbs. Finally, replace the wheel, lower the car, and bleed the system if necessary. For the CL11HB and CL14B Series Disc Brake Assembly, raise the vehicle securely, remove the rear wheel, and take out the two pin bolts and lock spring to suspend the caliper above the disc. Remove the pad retainers, pads, and shims, ensuring not to depress the brake pedal while the cylinder body is raised to avoid the piston popping out. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and use a syringe to remove excess fluid if necessary, then press the caliper piston back in by turning it clockwise to accommodate the new pads. Install the new pads with new shims in reverse order, torque the caliper pin bolts to 16-23 ft. lbs., and bleed the brakes if needed, ensuring to pump the brakes for a firm pedal before driving.