To take off the wheel the lug nuts have to be unscrewed, the car has to be lifted using a jack and supported on the stands before the wheel can be removed. Subsequently, unscrew the cotter pin and the driveaxle/hub nut and pull out the brake disc. Locate the wheel speed sensor and unclip it from the knuckle then finally, get ahold of the tie-rod end and remove it from the steering knuckle. Loosen and yet do not take out the strut to steering knuckle nuts and after that, disengage the control arm ball joint from the steering knuckle. Lift the steering knuckle away from the driveaxle by unscrewing the knuckle bolts and fasten the other end of the CV joint with wire. To remove the knuckle, undo the strut-to-knuckle bolts and pull the knuckle away from the strut After this undo the hub-to-steering knuckle bolts and pull the two to separate them and remove the brake disc splash shield. For installation, tighten the six M8 bolts to seventy and sixty-five newton meters for the hub, knuckle and the splash shield respectively. Apply the multi-purpose grease on the splines of the driveaxle, align the knuckle and the hub, and finally screw the driveaxle on the hub. Insert the knuckle into the strut flange and fit in the bolts and nuts though they should not be tightened at this time. Next, the control arm ball joint was bolted to the steering knuckle followed by joining the tie-rod end to the steering knuckle arm, the torque applied was 60 lb/ft for the
Tie Rod End nut, while the strut to knuckle nuts were torqued at 80 lbft and a new cotter pin was inserted through a hole in the tie rod ball stud. Put the brake disc on the hub and locate the caliper onto it; screw the driveaxle/hub nut and tweak to meet the recommended torque. Last, the wheel and lug nuts have to be fitted and put in place and then the vehicle can be lowered and the lug nuts tightened to the recommended torque.