To dismantle the engine and trans axle from the vehicle; paint match marks between the torque converter and drive plate since they will be released and reassembled, then unlock the torque converter bolts by turning the crank shaft to expose each bolt. Separate the splice wiring connections of the trans axle and then remove the wiring harness connected to the trans axle, dipstick tube and then the trans axle mounts attached to the sub frame. Loosen and disconnect the engine-to-trans axle bolts for proper orientation of reassembly and then extract the trans axle from the engine; slide it back, including the removal of trans axle cooler hose and the torque converter, and sealing the front to avert contamination. Regarding installation, it's advisable to flush the trans axle cooler and hoses with solvent, and in some cases, you might perform the second flush with clean automatic transmission fluid. To do this, make sure that the torque converter hub is locked into the pump securely while the front grid of the torque converter should be at least half an inch behind the trans axle housing. Swing the trans axle to the back of the engine using the marks made previously and put lugs on the torque converter to the drive plate, then move the trans axle forward to have dowel pins and torque converter interfaced. Fit trans axle mounting bolts in the correct position and without applying excessive force on the components and then tighten trans axle to engine bolts to the recommended torque. Bolt on the torque converter and tighten the bolts, and then top-up the trans axle with fluid because the torque convertor could be empty and it might take more fluid than when changing the fluid normally. Ignite the engine, engage the parking brake and run through all the gears of the trans axle thrice to test
Shift Cable mobility. With the trans axle in Park or Neutral, allow the engine to warm up to its normal temperature and then shut the engine off and check the fluid level other than making a road test to check for leaks.