Disconnecting the battery and removing the air filter housing is always the first step to take before removing the Brake Master Cylinder. It is also necessary to disconnect the electrical connector for the fluid level warning switch and, where applicable, disengage and close off the clutch fluid hose for a vehicle with manual transaxle. Then again, carefully draw off as much fluid as you can from the reservoir using a syringe without spilling any. Commence by loosening fittings upon those ends of
Brake Lines that enter into that cylinder. Detach it from its nuts which connects it to power booster having care on not leaving behind any remaining substance within this bottle. To install it, bench bleed new Brake Master Cylinder through holding it in a vise clamping bleeder tubes at output ports. Fill brake reservoir with recommended brake fluid then slowly press pistons into Brake Master Cylinder causing expulsion of air in chambers under pressure back into reservoir. One after another remove each of these bleed pipes and put plugs inside these openings so that there will be no spillage of any liquid or air getting inside. Apply silicone grease to the power booster bore and coat end O-ring of a Brake Master Cylinder inserting a new O-ring seal afterwards. The next step would be to place your hand on top of that booster pushing its studs through holes on other side until you feel them tightening up your fingers around nuts but not more than what is required at this point; now thread connections onto both its cylinders tight enough too! Fill reservoir with fluid, bleed lines at Brake Master Cylinder then proceed bleeding rest system should bring things back order soonest possible time possible-before reattaching battery or even attempting anything else lest some damage done internally somewhere resulting in loss braking performance leading complete failure altogether if not attended timely enough.