The crankshaft can only be removed after the engine has been taken out of the vehicle, assuming that the flywheel/driveplate, crankshaft pulley, timing belt for SOHC engines, timing chain for DOHC engines, sprockets, oil pan, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies have been detached. Before removing the crankshaft, check the endplay by mounting a dial indicator aligned with the crankshaft and touching one of the crank throws. Push the crankshaft to the rear and zero the dial indicator, then pry it to the front and check the reading to determine the endplay. If it exceeds the specified limit, inspect the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear; if no wear is found, new main bearings may resolve the issue. If a dial indicator is unavailable, feeler gauges can be used by prying or pushing the crankshaft forward and measuring the clearance between it and the rear main bearing. Loosen the main bearing cap bolts gradually until the cap and brace assembly can be removed by hand, ensuring to follow the reverse of the tightening sequence. Gently tap the cap assembly with a soft-face hammer to separate it from the engine block, using the bolts as levers if necessary, and take care not to drop the bearing inserts. Carefully lift the crankshaft out, possibly with assistance due to its weight, and return the cap assembly to its position on the engine block, tightening the bolts finger tight. For 2002 or later models, unbolt the oil jets from the cylinder block. On DOHC engines, check the main bearing cap bolts for excessive stretching; if there is a difference of 0.0043 inch (0.11 mm) or more in diameter between indicated areas, the bolts should be replaced, often making it more economical to buy a complete set rather than individual bolts.
