For the operating check, step on the
Brake Pedal several times without the ignition on to determine whether there is any change in the amount calculated through the reserve pedal distance; afterward, continue stepping on the brake pedal with the car's ignition on; if there is a slight drop, it shows normal operation. For a check on booster, switch on the engine, let it run for one or two minutes, turn off the engine then gradually apply the brake pedal several times; if the pedal has the following pressures means the booster is airtight. Depress the brake pedal when the engine is running, stop the engine with the brake pedal depressed, and if there is no additional change in the travel of the pedal after 30 seconds, the booster is, in addition to being a hydraulic unit, completely airtight. When performing the replacement of the power brake booster since the latter should not be taken apart because of its compounding and since it is also a vital component of the braking system, the steps to follow include, the master cylinder should be removed followed by the removal of vacuum hose in the booster, pulling off the safety clip and removing the pin from the clevis to detach the pushrod from the brake pedal. Then, you should unbolt four mounting nuts fixing the booster to the firewall and take the booster into the engine compartment. Before installing the new booster, ensure that you get the booster input rod length and set it if it was altered in anyway. It is done in the reverse sequence akin to removal exacting that a new gasket must be fitted in between the booster and the firewall. For adjustment, insert a straightedge or ruler between the power brake booster and the hole of the input rod clevis and if it is not within the specified length then slacken the nut and adjust it by rotating the clevis before fixing it to the brake pedal and tightening the nut.