An interesting aspect is the one-piece sealing system that is put into a housing located at the transaxle extension of the block; an element where the
Crankshaft is inserted prior to engaging the main bearing caps and, in fact, where the new Crankshaft Seal is fitted into the retainer and bolted to the block. Again, the seal contact surface needs to be checked for any roughness due to scratching causing the trim on the new seal lip and eventual oil leakage; if the crankshaft is badly worn, advice to get a replacement. The old seal can be easily chased out using hammer and punch from the back side of the retainer by noting down the depth; it is to be remembering that while fitting the new Crankshaft Seal this depth is required to be followed to without causing any harm to the bore in the retainer that results in the leakage of oil. Once the retainer has been cleaned, a thin layer of engine oil is then applied to the outer periphery of the new seal which has to be fitted squarely into the retainer bore, if a press is not available, then the retainer and the seal can be put in between two identical wooden blocks and the vise is applied till the force is evenly distributed and the seal is properly aligned with the retainer so that the them being pressed together Lubricate both sides of the seal lips with moly-base grease or engine assembly lube or before placing of the seal/retainer over the crankshaft is done then it should be firmly fit into the block and a new gasket should be used without sealant, the dowel pins should also be put before fitting the seal/retainer. Last of all the screws should be tightened in sequence to approximately the tightening torque decided upon.